Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne has somewhat of a misleading name—one would think it is a light, airy citrus fragrance—but in fact, the cologne demarcation refers to the concentration rather than style. The opening is a bit fuzzy with lavender, dark citrus, and rosemary. This soon gives way to the soft, floral heart of jasmine, lily, heliotrope and rose. The powdery, musky base is comprised of sandalwood, cedar, orris, and musk.
Helmut Lang EdC is where Victorian barbershop meets powdered wig and 1950s machismo though it is nowhere near as brusque or imposing as any of them. This fragrance has a certain “volume” to it though it is light and never cloying—perhaps from the buttery and “fatty” quality of the base.Be forewarned that Helmut Lang EdC has a modern, laundry detergent edge briefly that may offend some classicists. I think it is a better approximation of the tailoring industry on Saville Row than a recent "sartorial" release by a well-known English firm.