I must
confess that this article will be rather short as I have never smelled Le Fruit
Defendu, there is almost no information available, and it is unlikely that
anyone will be able to sample it (dreams come true though as a full bottle sold
at Christies New York a few years back for only $700—it was probably worth ten
times that).
Really,
the only solid information there is comes from a couple of blogs in French that
recount interviews with Jean Kerleo discussing his recreation for the
Osmotheque. Mr. Kerleo describes Le Fruit as a flowery woody amber fragrance
with strong overtones of almost overripe peach and apricot peel and says that
it reminds him of a sweet and salty toffee candy with peach. Bettina Aykroyd, Les
Parfums Paul Poiret a l’Osmetheque, Faire le Tour de Monde en Parfums (Jun.
30, 2013), http://faireletourdumondeenparfums.com/les-parfums-paul-poiret-a-losmotheque.
Another
source, Olfactorum, recites an interview with Marie Rogeon, the current owner
of Parfums Rosine, who reinvented the company as a rose garden in 1991. She
tells that Le Fruit was one of the first uses of galbanum and also employed
peach, apricot, and almond blossom.
So in
summary, it is safe to say that Le Fruit Defende comprises largely of semi-sweet,
almost fermented peach and apricot skin (which may give an almost boozy aura)
with the green effervescence of galbanum and nutty sweetness of almond blossom
over a simple bed of sandalwood, amber, and vanilla.
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