F. Millot Crepe de Chine
Another day and yet another classic vintage perfume to review. Today’s perfume is none other than Crepe de Chine by the lost F. Millot Company. I was expecting a powdery, sweet, aldehydic concoction, but I was happily surprised that these qualities (which I generally despise) are controlled—granted I am wearing the EdC concentration—these properties could be more outrageous in higher concentrations.This is what I expected given its release in the roaring Twenties alongside such greats as Caron's Tabac Blond, Chanel no. 5, and Molinard's Habanita.
The opening is lightly aldehydic, a far cry from monsters like Chanel no. 19. It is light, elegant, and restrained. The focus of the fragrance, however, is twofold. First, is the luminous floral bouquet of ylang, jasmine, muguet, rose, and possibly a bit of neroli. Second, the base is where it gets interesting. CdC reminds of Coty Chypre though, at least in EdC concentration, it is lighter and cleaner with a bit of old-fashioned French soap. There is a whack of genuine oakmoss, musk, cistus labdanum, and perhaps a touch of civet or ambergris. In a way, it does resemble the sheer silk fabric for which is named—creamy and velvety. While Crepe de Chine does lean a bit feminine, the EdC would be suitable for either gender and I doubt anyone would recognize it as a popular ladies’ fragrance from the 1920s.